Acclimation: never lift the worm out of the water, as air can get trapped in its tube; move it in a bag, under water. When buying, pick a specimen with a complete crown that withdraws briskly when touched, and whose tube is neither torn nor broken. Invertebrates cope poorly with changes in water quality: bring the bag water to your tank's water slowly.
Setup: a well-established tank of at least 100 litres with a sand bed. Anchor the tube between rocks or push it into the sand, fairly low, in a current that flows continuously under the crown without hitting it head-on. Light does not matter to it. If it leaves its tube to settle elsewhere, let it: it builds a new one within hours.
Tankmates: these worms do not sting, do not eat other animals and do not compete with them chemically. The reverse is not true: butterflyfish relish their crowns, some wrasses and hawkfish eat them, as do triggerfish, large puffers, filefish and some angelfish; omnivorous crabs kill them by pinching the tube, and eels or urchins can damage them as they move about.
Crown loss: many feather dusters shed their crown from time to time. Do not remove the tube: the crown grows back within a few weeks. An occasional loss is nothing to worry about; if it happens every couple of months, look for an irritant or a lack of food. A starving worm drops its crown and grows a smaller one each time, so a shrinking crown means it is not getting enough food. Invertebrates do not tolerate copper medications.
Water: aim for 22 to 25.5 °C, a specific gravity of 1.023 to 1.025, pH 8.1 to 8.4 and 8 to 12 dKH.
